Suffice it to say that most people who venture out for Sunday brunch aren’t seeking health food or anything low-fat. Comfort food — a category into which most brunch fare falls — has made such a dramatic comeback in recent years that many newspaper and magazine food sections have featured beauty shots of many such simple (albeit guilty) pleasures in their pages.

Even in its plainest form, grilled cheese is not a sandwich I easily pass up, so there was certainly no turning back when I saw chef Seth Woods’s grown-up version beckoning from Aquitaine’s brunch menu. Shreds of duck meat pocketed between generous layers of nutty Gruyère fill out this decadent, panini-like sandwich, which is kept from becoming overwhelmingly rich by a delicate, grassy watercress salad and a liberal dollop of tarragon mustard — also perfect as a dip for the hand-cut frîtes.

A word to the wise: bring along a friend to order the brioche French toast ($8.95), and share the two dishes. After all, what are Sundays for if not splurging?

Available for $12.95 at Aquitaine, 569 Tremont Street, in Boston. Call 617.424.8577.