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LINDSAY STERLING

Latest Articles

FOOD_cambodian_list

The queen of Cambodian cooking

Her friends call her 'So Peep'
Makara Meng, co-owner of Mittapheap World Market, welcomed me to her relative's suburban house in South Portland for an authentic Cambodian dinner.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  September 23, 2009

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In 10 years

From a handful of restaurants to a restaurant town
It wasn't always that Portland was "America's foodiest small town."
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  September 16, 2009

exotic list

Hot exotic adventure tonight!

Shave cabbage, rub pork ribs, peel yuca, and more
Unless you're a vegetarian or fried-pigskin-intolerant, I have an adventure for you. It requires about three hours. It's exotic, but does not require calling the phone numbers on the next few pages. Depending on who you are, it requires little or a lot of bravery. It's called cooking.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  August 26, 2009

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A long-ago farm

Exploring the origins of great food
Last week while you were reading here about Portland chef Krista Desjarlais's efforts at Bresca, I was cooking with her mother, Maili Kern, who lives in the West End. She taught me how to make rosolje, an incredible roast beef and root-vegetable salad from Estonia (recipe at  immigrantkitchens.blogspot.com ).
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  July 29, 2009

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Finding a way

Making Nicaraguan gallo pinto
If it weren't for Nicaragua, Jenny Sanchez and her favorite dish, gallo pinto, wouldn't be here. She's a 75-year-old grandmother. She's short, has wavy dark hair, black eyes. She leans over slightly even when she's standing upright and has a stiff, belabored walk. She lives alone in a neighborhood of single-floor apartments.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  July 01, 2009

spring list

Spring roll work area

American people under construction
In America, you can make your way through life without cooking. My friend is a Warmer Upper. Her meals are hot dogs and other frozen, jarred, or packaged things you heat up. And yet, she was at my house one afternoon for lessons on how to make fresh spring rolls.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  June 03, 2009

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Adventure cooking

Indian prawn curry breaks all the rules
Cooking Indian food by myself for the first time felt like skydiving; it went against all my instincts.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  May 06, 2009

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In search of authenticity

Real German, Real German potato salad
Friederike Munz, a 27-year-old German woman, was going to teach me how to make German potato salad the way she'd learned from her grandmother on a farm in Freiburg, Germany.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  April 08, 2009

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Cooking with two Russians

A day of authenticity, gross assumption, and great soup
Yulia Converse welcomed me into her kitchen in Maine to learn from her mother, Alla Zagoruyko, how to make authentic Russian borsht.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  March 11, 2009

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Buns, buns, buns

A Dominican fried treat whomps health-nut-ism
The sunshine yellow trim of the La Bodega Latina, a corner store and deli geared toward Spanish-speaking immigrants, peeks out above the eight-foot-high pile of dirty snow along Congress Street.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  February 11, 2009

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Let the alligators come to you

And, Portland, they're on the way
I'll be back next month with recipes, know-how, and cultural background on Dominican bollos de yuca, a fried meat-filled snack that's crispy outside and soft inside.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  January 14, 2009

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Transcendence through pasta

The artistry of Fabiana De Savino
I've just added to the list of Things Humans Don't Completely Understand.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  December 17, 2008

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The borscht I kissed once...

...in an underground hallway — and rediscovered at home
When I was working at the Harraseeket Inn in Freeport, two housekeepers who didn't speak English but giggled a lot brought in a pot of their family's borscht for the employee meal. In the dark basement hall where the employees ate, I tasted serious family-secret-cooking.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  November 19, 2008

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Persian pleasantries

Making Iranian eggplant stew
I went to the Kismet Inn a couple blocks from the water in downtown Bath to learn how to cook the innkeeper’s Iranian eggplant stew.  
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  October 23, 2008

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If you’re not sweating...

...something’s wrong with you
A sculpture on display at Filament Gallery this summer memorialized one of Jamaica’s great cooks. Her likeness is carved out of wood, sanded and polished with butcher’s wax.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  September 24, 2008

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Laymoon is lemon

How a Lebanese woman makes tabouleh
El-taha’s house in Falmouth is populated with an easy Lebanese-American combo-culture.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  August 27, 2008

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Super nanny

There's more to goats than cheese at Hamdi
Margaret Hathaway, a true goat expert who traveled the US on a quest for the perfect goat cheese and wrote a book called The Year of the Goat, informs me that goat is the next hottest meat.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  July 30, 2008

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What to eat in a bikini

Brazilian fried chicken + potato salad + rice
Brazil isn’t all about major wax jobs and itsy-bitsy bikinis.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  July 02, 2008

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Origami appetizers

Otherwise known as Somalian samboosas
Welcome to a tasty morsel of Somalian life.
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  June 04, 2008

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Heirloom Ukrainian recipes

Written in English for the first time
In a wind-bound seaside cottage rental where she’s been living this year, Sasha Prygoniuk, a 25-year old Ukrainian, has volunteered to teach me (and you) how to “kook,” (as she so charmingly pronounces it).
By LINDSAY STERLING  |  May 07, 2008
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