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Restaurant Reviews
Z Square Restaurant + Bar
Nostalgia tastes good
Remember when Harvard Square had all-night cafeterias filled with procrastinating students and desperate local bohemians?
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| December 13, 2006
Anise
An ‘A’ for effort, but not a perfect sum
Be careful what you wish for. I have been asking Chinese restaurants to upscale their service, shorten their menus, make clear what the chef’s specialties really are, and offer the more-authentic dishes on the English-language menu.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| December 05, 2006
Petit Robert Bistro
Meet the new Robert, same as the old Robert
This is Petit Robert Bistro #2, or II, or deux. Or, since this space, formerly Rouge, is smaller than the original Petit Robert, maybe it’s Plus Petit Robert.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| November 29, 2006
Zoe’s Gourmet Chinese Cuisine (Brookline)
Twice isn’t always as nice
There were extreme reactions to the news that Zoe’s, which has another location in Somerville, was taking over Shalom Beijing (formerly Shalom Hunan).
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| November 21, 2006
Bin 26 Enoteca
Whine and whimsy in Beacon Hill
The little space that used to be Torch has been taken over by Babak Bina and Azita Bina-Seibel of Lala Rokh.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| November 14, 2006
Bouchée
Standardized French fare, done well
Bouchée does so many things well that even some of its drawbacks may be successful.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| November 08, 2006
Measuring up
Chefs and diners alike have dishes they use to judge all restaurants
As I tucked in to the roast chicken at Hamersley’s Bistro recently, I chided myself for ordering it.
By:
LOUISA KASDON
| October 30, 2006
NuVo Kitchen & Wine Bar
Irish-American bistro food hits Rozzie
This space used to be Gusto, an Italian-focused place that was the first upscale restaurant in Roslindale Square.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| October 25, 2006
Oishii Boston
High prices, worthy rewards
The old thrill at the original Oishii restaurant in Chestnut Hill was to grab one of about nine seats and watch Ting San, a Nobu-level master and innovator, make unusual sushi for you.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| October 18, 2006
North Street Grille
A playful Italian place that flirts with other styles
In almost any neighborhood with fewer restaurants than the North End, the North Street Grille would be a real jewel.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| October 11, 2006
Himalayan Bistro
Nepali food finally stakes its claim
I’ve been seeing Nepali waiters in local Indian and Southeast Asian restaurants for several years, so it was only a matter of time before there was a Nepali restaurant.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| October 04, 2006
Restaurant L
R unway-worthy food
I don’t know why restaurants in high-end clothing stores are so good.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| September 27, 2006
Dante
Old Blu delights find a happy, new home
Dante surprises with a successful blend of culinary exploration and the meat-and-potatoes plates required of a major dining room in a large hotel.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| September 20, 2006
Alchemist Lounge
An old space with new flair
The bar critics — is that a tautology or an oxymoron?
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| September 13, 2006
Zoe’s Gourmet Chinese Cuisine
A big name, a big menu, and some good food
The name is almost as big as the 10-table restaurant.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| September 06, 2006
Tartufo Cucina Abruzzese
Old-World Italian meets a new neighborhood
Enthusiasts have described Tartufo as a taste of the North End moved out to Newton.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| August 30, 2006
Ivy Restaurant
A perfect pre-theater scene
This space used to be Limbo, an electronica lounge with terrific ultra-modern small plates.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| August 22, 2006
Beacon Street Tavern
An old favorite gets a new sibling
The owners of the Washington Square Tavern have a successful-restaurant formula, and thought a simplified version of that blueprint could work at a troublesome but large space at the far end of Audubon Circle’s restaurant row.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| August 17, 2006
Atasca
Authentic Portugal meets Tech Square
Since all the attention used to go to the original, smaller Atasca on Broadway — now closed — it felt like it was time to check out the newer, modern Hampshire Street restaurant, which seems from the outside to belong more to Tech Square than to ancient Iberia.
By:
ROBERT NADEAU
| August 08, 2006
Thou shalt pop corn
Little Lad's has a big draw
Okay, okay, I confess. I thought the whole Little Lad’s thing was a little strange, especially when I heard whisperings of the founders being religious.
By:
JESSICA PORTER
| August 09, 2006
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