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Rocca’s smashed almond bark

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The Elephant Walk’s nataing

Nataing

Rarely do restaurant-goers have the option of sampling both Cornish game hen with a tarragon-mustard wine sauce and soy-bathed loc lac beef chunks under the same roof. But at the Elephant Walk, Longteine de Monteiro’s dual-faced Cambodian/French menu leaps back and forth between Western Europe and Asia, turning out chilled bowls of avocado-citrus soup just as easily as it does vats of traditional Phnom Penh noodle broth.

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Many who frequent the Elephant Walk, however, advise sticking to the Cambodian dishes to capitalize on the chefs’ inherent strengths. Portions here being fairly hearty, it’s a good idea to plan on sharing and sampling from whatever lands on your table — notably, the Thai curry-like appetizer called nataing. This sweet, rosy-rust-colored mixture of ground pork, garlic, chilies, shallots, and peanuts is steeped in coconut milk with rustic slabs of crispy jasmine rice alongside for dipping. Keep a spoon on-hand, though: even with a few friends dipping in, the bowl is deep and the coconut milk is rich. Besides, you’ll need to make it to the entrée course.

Available for $8.50 at the Elephant Walk, 900 Beacon Street, Boston and 2067 Mass Ave, Cambridge |617.247.1500 and 617.492.6900

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