15 Point Road

Fresh and full of seafood

4/27/2006 5:40:42 PM

Though the Sakonnet River is not technically the ocean, it certainly sets the scene for seafood dining at 15 Point Road, the restaurant that overlooks the river. The building takes full advantage of its location, with windows wrapping two sides of the intimate but airy dining room. Natural light also floods the room from two skylights in the slanted ceiling, and large mirrors on the other two walls reflect even more light onto the comfortable booths and tables.

As our meal progressed, I could watch as dark clouds on the eastern horizon picked up pastel shades from the setting sun, and the green lawn and white buildings in Tiverton took on golden highlights from that same sun. Gulls soared and mewed; ducks paddled and dove. It’s a restful setting for a special dinner.

With the waterfront so close by, it’s easy to understand why the restaurant prides itself on getting the freshest fish and shellfish available — our waitress said she’d seen local fishermen come to the back door with a large fish in their arms. On previous visits, we’ve enjoyed the pan-seared scallops and the lobster casserole in puff pastry, and 15 Point Road’s menu boasts another 10 seafood entrées and seafood bisque.

Our aim for this meal, however, was to try out the $17 prix fixe menu, served Wednesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays. A choice of seven entrées is served with a glass of chablis, burgundy, white zinfandel, Michelob, or soda, plus salad, dessert and coffee or tea. My mind was still on seafood, and the seven choices included grilled salmon with Bernaise sauce, stuffed filet of sole with Mornay sauce, and baked New England scrod. Also available were two chicken dishes, pork medallions, and grilled duck breast.

Since duck is one of Bill’s favorites, and he hadn’t had it in quite a while, his main dish decision was quick and easy. He chose the long-grain and wild rice pilaf for his starch, and we were both pleased with the vegetable medley of zucchini sticks, carrot coins, and broccoli florets that were not over-steamed, as can so often happen. The duck breast was medium rare, as requested, and fork-tender, in its orange demi-glaze.

continued below...

I went for the simplest seafood on the menu, the scrod, and was not disappointed. Oven-roasted, with a bit of paprika and herbs, the cod was a sweet accompaniment to a carefully baked potato and the aforementioned veggies.

Going in reverse order, our salads were dressed with a raspberry vinaigrette that tasted as though frozen or fresh raspberries had been blended up and added to the vinaigrette. Kudos to executive chef Steve Renshaw, who is co-proprietor, with his wife Liz. Warm and crispy herbed rolls accompanied our appetizer, which was steamed littlenecks — the seafood theme again — with scallions, lemon, and olives in a garlic broth ($10.50). Though the broth was flavorful and warranted being sopped up with pieces of the roll, the black olives seemed to be the canned variety. The clams themselves were delicious.

Our dessert choices with the prix fixe were chocolate cake and carrot cake, so we ordered one of each. The carrot cake was a light and spicy version, with a light cream cheese frosting. The chocolate cake had a dark chocolate frosting, and it was also quite good. Other desserts available are ice cream pies, a Godiva parfait, apple crisp, and Key Lime pie.

On the regular menu, the pastas, grilled items, and “signature specials” have wine recommendations, and though many are California wines, there’s a Chardonnay from Portsmouth’s Greenvale Vineyards, and a Vidal Blanc from Sakonnet Vineyards, in Tiverton. The burgundy and white zinfandel that accompanied our meals were, understandably, nothing special. We’ll be more savvy the next time around.

And though our meals were quite good, I’m still yearning to try more of what the menu spotlights, such as sole Sarafino, with mushrooms, shrimp, tarragon, and white wine; or chicken Nanaquaket, with apples, celery, lingonberries, walnuts, and apple brandy. There are also steak, veal, filet mignon, and lamb chop entrées — plenty to satisfy the non-seafood fans.

Email the author
Johnette Rodriguez: johnette.rodriguez@cox.net